I post this image of some guys working a Banshee Bungee at Lori Wilson Park in Cocoa Beach, Florida, not so much because it is a fun photo, but because of what a stranger came up to me on the beach and said after I took it. He joked, “Most folks would think it is pretty crazy to launch yourself in to the air on a skim board with a bungee cord, but I want to shake the guy’s hand who decided it was safe enough to get in their way and take some photos.” Ha! I turned 36 this weekend. Guess I still haven’t learned.
Category Archives: Musings
The Emperor’s New Clothes
On Saturday I fueled up my far-from-fuel-efficient SUV and burned my way out to Upham Beach for the Hands Across the Sand demonstration against offshore oil drilling. I’d never been to Upham, but my Droid’s operating software navigated the asphalt-covered roads flawlessly. It was already a scorcher by 10:30am, so I ran the car’s AC while generously applying sunscreen. I grew thirsty, but fortunately I brought my plastic water bottle, and I tipped it to my lips before striking out to the beautiful white beach and shimmering blue water that millions of tourists travel to Florida every year to see.
The Suncoast Chapter of Surfrider Foundation had their tent out, so I stopped in to sign the petition, peruse their marketing material, and find out when we would be lining up and joining hands. I was a bit early, so I headed out for a swim. I thought, what the hell am I doing here? From the looks of it, a number of Gulf Coast surfers had driven over to the East Coast to take advantage of some rare summer swell. Why hadn’t I done the same? This little demonstration isn’t going to achieve a single thing. And regardless, we’re all hypocrites.
Sit, Rover…Good Dog.
Every year Dr Beach comes out with his top 10 list of “The Best Beaches in America,” and hard-hitting journalists the world over breathe a collective sigh of anticipation resolved. Moments after the press release hits their inboxes, and they’ve diligently copy, pasted, and published it (of course, with a little twist of their own journalistic integrity), they are on the first flight out to Dr Beach’s promised land.
Coopers Beach, the main beach in the village of Southampton on the east end of Long Island, New York took top honors this year. The fact that the water is cold and dark most of the time apparently didn’t factor in to the equation. But congratulations to them. May they be blessed with a bounty of disposable income wielding tourists with bouncy beach balls and boom boxes.
Inevitably, a Florida beach makes it on to the exclusive top 10 list as well. Sneaking on at the enviable number 2 position – Siesta Beach. Right outside of Sarasota, Florida, and just a mere one hour drive south of Tampa, I couldn’t imagine why I had never been there before? Of course, the moment I became privy to this secret little gem, I set out to see what the rest of America was surely drooling over. And there America was.
This is what Siesta Beach was like on a Saturday in early June.
This is what a beach just north of Sarasota near Tampa/St. Petersburg looked like on the very same weekend.
I think we can all agree that PR works; but that doesn’t always mean you should believe the hype.
Cocoa Beach Boutique
Residing in Tampa, Florida, Robert Payne is a frequent visitor to the “Space Coast” where he reports on various hotels and accommodations in the area.
Beach Place Guesthouses
Many beach hotels promise luxury, relaxation, and an unforgettable experience you’ll cherish for a lifetime. But after you stand in line at the reception desk for what seems like forever, wield a carrier full of effects to your room, and then take the elevator down to find the pool packed with screaming kids, you’ll wonder why you’re spending a paycheck on a vapid space in a big beehive. And no, a chocolate chip cookie upon check-in doesn’t make it any better.
Even so-called luxury hotels will often feel crowded, corporate, and sprawling. I like a little personality, and preferably some originality, that provides a natural and organic experience as you flow from one space to the next. It should have a salubrious air about it that removes the common every day annoyances, and replaces them with a laid back ease.
These are some of the attributes I’ve found with Beach Place Guesthouses in Cocoa Beach, Florida. Owners Joseph and Hernando have taken special care to create an alternative to Cocoa Beach hotels that combines convenience and comfort without pomp or circumstance. It is just south of Cocoa Beach, so you remove yourself from the blur of kitschy tourist trappings and traffic, but you are still in close proximity to all the shopping, restaurants, and sightseeing you may want.
Because I travel with an insane amount of gear for parenting, beaching, surfing, and kayaking, I very much like the safe and easy access to my car that Beach Place Guesthouses provides. I can easily load and unload the car, but then at the same time forget it is even there. I prefer to stay in the bottom two rooms, in the front, where I can spill out on to the grass and the verandah whether I am striking off for the beach, taking a swing in the hammocks, or carrying some food to the grill.
The other big plus is the layout of many of the rooms. You’ll be hard pressed to find many places around Cocoa Beach, that aren’t condominiums, but do offer 2 bedrooms and 2 baths. This is ideal, of course, for splitting the cost with another couple. Want to checkout a little late on Sunday? Maybe take a long walk? Joseph and Hernando hardly seem to mind.
If you are a diehard pool person, then this place is not for you because, well, they don’t have one. For me, I hardly miss it. The warm ocean waters of Florida are all the pool I need. Even better, Beach Place Guesthouses conveniently sports a great surf break just to the north of the property.
Beach Place Guesthouses is a little home away from home. Stay a week or a weekend, either way, you’ll leave rested and ready to return.
The opinions expressed in this review are solely those of Robert Payne.
A Retreat Just South of Melbourne Beach
Residing in Tampa, Florida, Robert Payne is a frequent visitor to the East Coast of Florida where he reports on various hotels and accommodations in the area.
Seashell Suites
Against my better judgement, I am going to reveal a secret and tell you about a place that I like to stay when traveling to Melbourne Beach and Sebastian Inlet. But first, let me say that I’ve stayed in many different hotels, motels, condominiums, and campgrounds between Cocoa and Melbourne Beach. Living in relatively close proximity here in Tampa, Florida gives me the opportunity to frequent the area for its surfing opportunities, beautiful beaches, and breathtaking blue water. If there happens to be a shuttle launch – even better! Needless to say I’ve experimented with accommodations up and down the coastline, and Seashell Suites is definitely a good spot to stay.
Getting There
You definitely want to bring all the supplies you’ll need before your arrival. As you leave the town of Melbourne Beach and head south on A1A, the predominant square structures that compose giant hotels, condos, and shopping centers fall away behind you and are replaced with hardly anything but rolling dunes covered with green sea grapes, glimpses of the blue sea on your left, and the Indian River on your right. This narrow strip of land leads to the point of Ponce de Leon’s landing long ago – where the nation’s first National Wildlife Refuge, Pelican Island, was created – and the entrance to Sea Shell Suites just 2 miles from Sebastian Inlet.
The Resort
Upon arrival, it is immediately clear this eco-friendly resort went through a recent and extensive remodel, for everything shines like new. Surveying the grounds you’ll notice the careful detail to landscaping and decor. Copper trimming, plantation shutters, recessed solar lighting, boxes of blooming hibiscus, and whimsical sculptures are just some of the treatments. Walk down the stone pathway past the pool and sauna, and you’ll see a wonderful piazza for grilling and relaxing at night. Ahead the path rises gradually up over the dune and out to a verandah with wide open vistas of the ocean and its unspoiled beach. Lounge on the chairs and soak up the view, or grab a beach chair and a fishing rod. There is good surfing directly in front of the property, or you can walk south on the beach towards Sebastian Inlet to an area I found to be even better.
The Rooms
If you are like me, what you worry most about in a place like this is noise. I can tell you that even when Seashell Suites is completely booked, and you are staying in a suite right smack dab in the middle of the other 8 suites, you’ll have a really tough time hearing anyone else. If I could put anything extra on my wish list, I would prefer the rooms be slightly bigger with another bathroom. Of course, I also have a good appreciation for the regulations and prices that exist in this area, so I can understand the constraints the owner was faced with when building. The fact is there are only a few suites on the property, and they are well-appointed with free WiFi and two flat screens to keep you amused. But aside from cooking and sleeping, I doubt you’ll spend much time inside your room. You’ll even want to take your meals outside.
The Beach
In contrast to the hustle and bustle of the beaches further north, you will have the white sand in front of Seashell Suites practically to yourself. Walk in either direction, and you’ll enjoy miles of unencumbered coastline. One morning I arose to watch the sunrise, and a Great Horned Owl flew directly above me and landed on a perch close by. Turtles come upon the beach to nest, and dolphin feed offshore. It is not only beautiful, but you’ll find a state of relaxation that often eludes us in our every day lives.
If you can muster up the energy to leave then it is certainly worth checking out Sebastian Inlet State Park and Pelican Island, which features trails and a bird viewing station. There are bikes available, and sea kayaking and fishing charters that can be arranged, as well as surf lessons.
If you are coming for the shuttle launch, I would highly recommend coming the day before. You can see the shuttle from SeaShell Suites, but it is much better to drive up to Cocoa Beach or Titusville. Keep in mind it is roughly an hour both ways, and traffic surrounding the launch can be slow. Nevertheless, it is definitely worth it. People only begin to understand the awesome power and incredible engineering involved when they witness it firsthand. Just think about the fact that the astronauts are traveling 17,500 mph only 8 minutes after liftoff.
I have a few other secrets to share with you regarding the Space Coast and the surrounding areas of Cocoa and Melbourne Beach, but I’ll save those for next time. Meanwhile, let’s hope the engineers for BP and the Coast Guard get the oil spill under control and cleaned up. Florida is counting on you.
The opinions expressed in this review are solely those of Robert Payne.
Tampa Twilight Criterium
I really enjoyed attending the Tampa Twilight Criterium in downtown Tampa on Saturday afternoon. I took my son with me in a backpack, and while I took photos, he provided commentary – “Whoooooooah!” – I think he was impressed that they were just a little faster than his Red Ryder.
Having done a few of these myself, I can relate to the challenges of working with a city to orchestrate an event like this. But the organizers, police, and City of Tampa were all accommodating and everything seemed to go smoothly.
My camera doesn’t really have the chops for this kind of combined light and speed, but I made the best of it and am happy with how a few came out. I just feel lucky I didn’t get my block knocked off. Hopefully the guys didn’t mind!
Gulf Coast Surfing
Luke grabbed this shot of me yesterday out at “The Street” in AMI. I like it for the perspective and because it shows how beautiful the water and waves around Tampa Bay can be. Normally, I would be riding a shortboard in conditions like this, but with mine in the shop, I decided to give the longboard a try. It can be pretty exciting trying to maneuver a longboard in steep, shallow waves. I got worked a few times, but I also managed to pull into some hollow barrels. I’ve said it already, but what a great season of surfing on the Gulf this winter/spring. Now to get rid of some junk in the trunk…
Park City and the (De) Evolution of a Skier
I walk upright and could tease a termite out of a mound with just one stick. I’m an educated man – I’ve read stuff – and what not. And after skiing in the Lake Tahoe area for almost 10 years, crisscrossing and crossing the entire Sierra Nevada chain, and making repeated trips to Utah and Park City for 6 years running, one would think I possess a certain amount of reason when it comes to venturing out in the backcountry. But apparently that is not the case. However, before you judge me hear me out.
I live in Florida now, and I’m also a new father. The amount of ski days I got this year can be counted on one hand. So, to say I was chomping at the bit when I got to Park City last week would be an understatement. 17-inches of new snow did little to abate my excitement.
Powder Between Friends
What could be better than having nothing to do but rip endless fields of powder with good friends? Nothing. Except for here’s the problem: Occasionally, I like to earn my turns, and none of my friends on this trip wanted to hike. Furthermore, not a single one of them owns any backcountry gear. Okay, I guess I’ll simply stay in bounds and enjoy what the ski resort has to offer. But…but…look at all that untracked POW!!! Taunting me like Christmas candy and piles of cash shoved in to a well in the midst of a dry, scorching dessert. I resisted the first day…and the second.
Up until then I’d politely followed the group, accommodated late starts, pursued whims, and endured long lunches. And it didn’t really matter because Park City Mountain Resort continually served up runs of untracked powder on fun, steep terrain. One can happily ski the Jupiter and McConkey’s bowls all day long until it occurs to them that there is so much more hiding in Thaynes, King Con, or even Bonanza.
But when it came to the third day I was ready for something off-piste. Our group had made the short trip over to The Canyons Resort, and I could see many of the classic backcountry runs the ski resort is known for slowly but surely being marred by unencumbered skiers and snowboarders. I could not idly ski by any longer. So when Ninety-Nine 90 dropped us off for the third time that day, I politely waved to my party and said that I would see them at Peak 5.
The Draw of the Dutch
I quickly made my way up and out along the skier’s right ridge, stopping only for a moment at Dutch’s notch to kick out of my skis again. I began hiking up to the far peak where the snow was the most preserved, and I was at the top in no time. I took note of the fact that I was not alone, which made me feel a little safer. It was a false sense of security, however, because the beacon I was carrying offered little assurance that anyone else on the peak had one, let alone a shovel, probe, or concern for my well-being. But my run was just what we all dream of with shots of powder intermittently blinding me before arcing in to the next turn. I got down to Peak 5 and immediately decided that I would take another backcountry run – alone.
Peak 5 Slide
With great intention, I pulled the gate open at the back of Peak 5 and began hiking up the ridge. The snow was deeper than I expected and the going was slow. I felt low on energy and decided I would cut out early, catch my friends at lunch, and come back refreshed and hopefully with a companion. I was unfamiliar with my exact surroundings, but having skied along this ridge many times in past years, I nonchalantly began ripping down through the trees. I could see a substantial rise approaching, so I threw in a hard edge and abruptly stopped to get a closer look. This action immediately set off a small slide to my left and below, and while seemingly insignificant by the looks of the photos, it would have carried me over a series of rock shelves and down in to a grove of trees – alone.
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I shook this whole occurrence off quickly, traversed around the rocks, and went off to meet my friends only after enjoying a few more precious powder turns. Now here’s where it just gets plain dumb.
Not only do I know how Utah’s light snow can be, and often is, lethal, but I had just seen proof it was unstable on the very same day. But what do I proceed to go and do? Convince my friends, who are novices when it comes to the backcountry and avalanche conditions, to go and do a hike with me off the back of Peak 5. Nice!
Three of us did the hike, this time dropping the large open bowl to skier’s right. Fortunately, nothing bad happened. The run was in fact fantastic, and it was made even sweeter when we just barely caught the last lift out of there right at 4pm on the nose. But a conversation later transpired between me and one of my best childhood friends that has stuck with me ever since. He asked,
“How would you get out of an avalanche?”
Avalanche Safety
Really, there are no easier answers to this question; in fact, more experts die in avalanches than any other group. The best course of action is avoidance through the proper study of snow conditions. This means taking in to account no less than the amount of recent snowfall, layers, temperature, aspect, and degree of slope. After evaluating these factors, you of course want to make sure everyone in your party is equipped with a beacon, probe, shovel, and knowledge of how to use each one of them. Even then there are inherent risks, as well as weaknesses. For example, plastic shovels are pathetic in comparison to metal blades, for the snow can be extremely difficult to dig through. Regarding beacons, I can remember besting a Squaw Valley Ski Patroller during an avalanche training course only because I had a more modern beacon. His transceiver beeped directions to the hidden victim, but my digital version literally pointed the way.
If you get caught in an avalanche you must try to stay on the surface by using a backwards swimming motion. I have a friend who pulled this one off when he slid from top to bottom in the Chutes at Mount Rose Ski Resort. He was lucky enough to have part of his face and arm sticking out when he finally came to rest, but he still had to be dug out of the binding snow. In most cases, however, the slide victim is not so lucky. Some are smashed in to trees and rocks and immediately die from the resulting trauma. Others are literally ground in to a bloody mass from lacerations and the mashing of heavy pieces of ice. None of it is pretty. As I explained all of this to my friend he said, “I’m to old for this shit – I’ve got kids!” As if waking from a pervasive fog I thought to myself, so do I.
Choosing Your Line
It is here at this point that you are possibly expecting me to say, I’ll never go out in the backcountry again. But that is not likely. What I will say is that I will always strive to ski with a buddy, choose the safest slopes possible, pack extra backcountry gear, or rent it, and always be clear with myself and any accomplices on the inherent dangers involved. Keep in mind what a rather poignant Summit County Sheriff once said, ”If you’re an adult and you want to go and risk your life, it’s your business…We just have to clean up the mess.”
Trust me, I want to avoid the mess as much as the next sane person. I used to debate with a good friend about the dangers of outdoor sports, and he would argue that a person was more likely to be killed in a car accident. I would disagree. I was still disagreeing when an earthquake dislodged a boulder on to a highway that almost killed me. My car was totaled and I was lucky to walk away from it. It pains me to think I could have died riding a proverbial groomer.
Our lines in life are rarely clean, but they are certainly made better by applying the knowledge, skills, and patience we do have. These are the attributes we need to take our pursuits out of bounds and push the limits, and still make it back to the parking lot to take our boots off when the day is done.
GASP…arilla!
The basic premise of Gasparilla is really quite simple. Close off two adjoining streets, parade a bunch of pirates down one of them, and invite people to come out and party on the other one. Sounds easy enough, but the reality is Gasparilla is a logistical bear that Tampa Bay has been trying to perfect for more than 100 years.
The big invasion can attract upwards of 350,000 people, and they don’t come to sit idly by. Nope, they come to party and parade their own versions of pirate garb to fellow marauding mateys, while collecting as many Mardi Gras beads as possible. Some residents, especially along the parade route, feel that Gasparilla is out of control. Having witnessed 3 such events I can hardly blame them for their concerns. The amount of trash that ends up on the streets and in the waters of Tampa Bay is staggering – the noise is deafening -there are inevitably fights and arrests – and you can be sure it attracts Tampa’s best and brightest. All of this has most self-respecting retirees fleeing for more sheltered pastures. But when I put my branding and marketing hat on I see it as a tradition the city can’t afford to quit.
Many cities struggle to define themselves. You’ll often see destinations go through rebranding exercises every time there is a new head of marketing because no one can truly agree on what best communicates the location. Tampa, on the other hand, is steeped in pirate lore and will always be closely tied to the many bays, rivers, and estuaries that served as hiding places for these buccaneers who now, by the way, can play a mean game of football. People love events that are done well, and it is clear Gasparilla has found the sweet spot.
The annual economic impact of Gasparilla is said to be $46 million annually. In an economy where people are struggling to put food on the table, that’s some much needed change. To alleviate some past transgressions, this year an additional 100 police officers and many more port-o-pottys were added to the parade route. Both were a welcome addition. The strategy of moving people downtown to the music stages was also a wise improvement.
All in all it was a fun time, and I certainly enjoyed capturing a bit of the revelry. The rain kept some people away, but for the most part it went unfelt. A few days later it appears concerned residents have returned to their soft, cozy homes, the streets are clean, parade floats have been put up, and some where a poor turtle is swimming along with a string of beads stuck in its throat, gasping for the next Gasparilla.
Chronicles of Tampania
Dropped a little Gulf Coast angst this week with some fun waves here in the Tampa Bay area. El Nino, aka The Little Boy, keeps kicking up those high winds that ultimately lead to rideable surf. This particular day consisted of super glassy peelers breaking under beautiful, warm, sunny skies. As you will see from this short clip, there were some barrels to be had. Didn’t think the Gulf Coast had waves, did you?
AMI from Robert Payne on Vimeo.